TOPIC:

Hello, I have a 1981 ltd 750 that I am in the process of rebuilding. As I have the entire thing disassembled at the moment I would like to make a few modifications. The current front controls are looking quite crappy and I would like to update them to something a little bit different. I have found the left controls of a 2004 honda VT1100 C2 shadow and the right controls off a 1999 Yamaha V-star 650.

My main question is what do I need to look for in order to change these over. Would it be a relatively simple matter of changing the plugs to fit with the current electrical harness or is there something non-obvious I am missing. Besides ensuring they both are off the same bar size I can't think of major problems.

I appreciate the help and yes I am a noob and this is my first project bike. Thanks in advance.

I'd think you'll need the wiring diagrams from these two bikes & a good multimeter(with ohm, or continuity settings) to determine what wire does what, as I doubt it's going to be a simple "Plug and Play" operation. Make a new diagram, indicating what the wire colors do, for future troubleshooting.

first problem I see is that the 2004 honda shadow runs 1" bars and possibly 1" on the '99 v-star as well, verses to 7/8" bars on your kz. After that its mostly a matter of matching wires to thier proper counterparts and rigging up a harness plug.

I was planning on putting a new bar on so time to get a 1" bar. I already have an electrician friend on standby to help rig up the plug. Next thing is to find the wiring diagrams for the bikes. Either that or place some sort of shim and keep the bar I have on it currently.

Decisions decisions.

Anfoking wrote: I was planning on putting a new bar on so time to get a 1" bar... Either that or place some sort of shim and keep the bar I have on it currently....

Stock 7/8" handlebar clamps won't fit a 1" handlebar, unless there happens to be available a 1" handlebar manufactured with a 7/8" center portion. Nor will the clutch perch, master cylinder and throttle assembly made to fit a 7/8" handlebar.

Fashioning a split shim out of whatever material may be the better option for fitting the 1" switches, while retaining the other 7/8" hardware.

Good Fortune!

Anfoking wrote: ... Next thing is to find the wiring diagrams for the bikes....

Here's a link to the wiring diagram in KZr's FILEBASE:
Click here > www.kzrider.com/filebase/search/finish/1-general/274-z750h2

Good Fortune!

I hadn't even thought about the mounts. but I was looking around for a new clutch perch and master cylinder.

Pulling Wire Bundles Inside Handlebars

Before running any wiring inside the bars, take time to see if any sharp "Burrs" are there, otherwise they will quickly strip any insulation away from the wire's conductors, resulting in an electrical short.

A Dremel tool with a small stone grinding bit will smooth most burrs away. If a Dremel is not available, a small round rat tail file works just as good.

Any electrical wire splices, should be “Staggered” to avoid a lump, so the bundle will pull smoothly through the handlebar(s).

When preparing to pull the wire bundle through the bars, carefully taper the bundles end with masking tape as this makes for a better pulling situation.

I use aircraft 0.032" diameter safety wire secured to the wire bundle as a pulling medium, Nylon string or small diameter cord will work for this too.

Silicone spray or electricians pulling lubricant should be applied to the end of the wires to ease the operation. It's best to have a helper while doing this to avoid problems of possible pinched or damaged wires. Have your helper apply a steady pulling effort while you carefully feed the wire bundle into the handlebars.

After the job of pulling is done, get a multimeter, set it on the lowest ohm setting, open up the switch housings to access the wire ends and then see if a wire of two has shorted out.

Put one probe on the handlebar and the other on any soldered wire ends on the switches and see if the meter indicates continuity by either making a buzz(some meters have built in buzzers) or a display on the meter face.

An analog meter(the type with the needle indicator) will act similar (except no buzzer) by showing usually a full deflection(needle movement)if there is a short by again, checking with the lowest setting on the ohm scale of the meter.

Finding a short now is a whole lot better than when it's wired up & blowing fuses or possible stranding you on the road.....