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KZ750-E1 Coil wiring question 11 Jun 2012 04:47 #528110

  • -[DawG]-
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Gooooood day fellow kz'ers..

Hope all is good in the land of the old beasts.

A friend and I am building up a KZ750 for some time now, but are having some problems with the ignition system. I rewired the WHOLE bike with new wires and plugs etc, and everything seems to be working.

The problem we are experiencing is that I'm not to sure which wires need to go with which coil. On the wiring diagram I have 3 wires coming from the IC Igniter, Green, Black, Red. The Green and black are (supposedly) being pluged into the positive of the coils left and right, and the red going to the killswitch almost like a "common negative".

When firing up the bike all the plugs spark, but not as bright as before. One test we did for some reason the plugs when ballistic and sparked like lighting (ok not THAT bright) but still bright enough for me to have faith that it will work under compression.

The other thing is, upon turning the engine, with some throttle, we get a HUGE backfire, but it does not smell of petrol, more of heat or metal or something stinky.

Any ideas which could lead us in the correct path?

MUCH appreciated :)
"Everything has beauty, but not everyone sees it."


1982 KZ750R - Sold
1980 CX500 - Sold
1980 KZ750-E1 - Project
GSXR1100 SS - Future Project
2000 CBR600F4 - Sold
2008 DRZ400SM - Sold (Biggest mistake EVER)
2007 KTM 200 XCW - Smokin Toy :D

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KZ750-E1 Coil wiring question 11 Jun 2012 10:34 #528132

  • Motor Head
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"File Base" has your wiring diagram.
www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/292-z750e1
1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...

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KZ750-E1 Coil wiring question 11 Jun 2012 13:45 #528178

  • MFolks
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Ignition Coil Primary And Secondary Wiring

Ignition coils on the 80’s Kz1000,Kz1100’s and Gpz1100’s are wired the same, that is as you sit on the bike, the LEFT ignition coil primary(small wires) are two wires, RED and BLACK. The secondary (or sparkplug wires) go to #1 and #4 sparkplugs(your primary wiring may be different).

Read carefully, as the 550’s, 650’s, 700’s & 750’s ignition wiring are backwards to what is listed for the bigger 4’s.

The cylinders are numbered left to right as you sit on the seat; #1,#2,#3, and #4.

For the RIGHT ignition coil, the primary wires, again are two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary going to #2 and #3.

The RED wire gets it’s voltage from the run/stop switch on the right handlebar switch pod. Your primary wiring may have a different color.

The BLACK and GREEN wires connect to the IC Igniter(if the bike has the Kawasaki supplied electronic ignition) it actually gives the coils their grounds to fire the sparkplugs. The RED wire is common to both ignition coils.

Primary(small wires) side of the coils will read between 1.8 to 3.0 ohms.

Secondary(sparkplug wire ports)side of the coil will read between 10.4K to 15.6K ohms. These ports are wired together, so it makes no difference which is used, as long as the correct coil to sparkplug configuration is followed.

The sparkplug caps should read 5K OHMS(5000), any higher, or a reading of infinity means new caps should be ordered. When re-installing the old or new sparkplug caps, cut about ¼” off the sparkplug wires for a new un-corroded connection.

Never run supression sparkplug wires with sparkplug caps containing the 5000 ohm resistor, as now there will be two (2) resistances in the ignition coil’s secondary circuit, causing weak and intermittent spark.


To stress the ignition coils, take a hair dryer, heat the coils and see if the ohm readings change from cold to hot . If they do, it’s time to buy new coils.
Keep in mind, the wiring is reversed for the 550’s, 650‘s,700’s, and 750‘s, that is the RIGHT coil primary will be two wires, RED and BLACK with the secondary(sparkplugs) going to #1 and #4.

The LEFT coils primary wiring would be again two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary(sparkplugs) going to #2 and #3.

An indication of black and sooty sparkplugs may not mean a carb or carbs are in need of cleaning, but may mean the input voltage is low.

When checking the input voltage to the ignition coils, first have a fully charged battery, and the using a multimeter, set it up to measure VDC(Volts, Direct Current), range of 20.

Put the RED probe from the multimeter on the same terminal that either a RED wire or ones that’s RED with YELLOW stripe, and the BLACK probe on either a good frame/Earth ground or the battery Negative(-) terminal/post.

Depending on the motorcycles current draw( lighting, and other high amp needs) the reading might be 10 volts or more, but if the reading is down around 8 volts or less, this indicates a corrosion or wiring problem needs correcting to improve input voltage to the coils.

These engines have what is known as a “Wasted Spark” that is, a sparkplug will fire during an exhaust stroke. It does no damage and many other motorcycle engines have this design.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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KZ750-E1 Coil wiring question 11 Jun 2012 13:47 #528179

  • MFolks
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Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

1. Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website. It can be purchased at most Radio Shack Stores or any electronic supply places. Or use any plastic safe electrical contact cleaner(NOT WD-40 !).

2. On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

3. Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

4. However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach. Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

5. Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

6. Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

7. Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

8. If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

9. The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start. The older Kawasaki’s have reports of the soldered connections crumbling, if your bike has this problem, just ask, as I’ve got a repair procedure for this.

10. Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

11. The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

12. If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you, along with boating supply stores.

13. Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting). I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

14. All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt

15. Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.

16. If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation. Inspect all heavy duty battery cables and the smaller wire terminations(Bullet Connectors), for failed crimps, and those used in the electrical connectors, as they can fail over time.

17. Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

18. The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

20. The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

21. Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

22. Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........

“I spent a weekend going through every electrical connection and switch on the bike with a little scotchbrite pad and DeOxit - what a difference! Everything was brighter, gauge backlights, indicator lights, turn signals, I was getting a nicer spark, it fired up quicker, etc. Well worth my time. WELL worth it! “

From a forum member at www.kzrider.com
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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KZ750-E1 Coil wiring question 11 Jun 2012 13:50 #528180

  • MFolks
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If, while cleaning the electrical switches and bulb sockets, you discover failed or failing solder joints, here's a repair procedure:

Read this for a primer on hand soldering: technologyinterface.nmsu.edu/fall97/electronics/solder.html

Repairing Motorcycle Soldered Connections on the older bikes.

When repairing soldered wires on motorcycle switches or light bulbs sockets, have the following on hand:

1. A 25 Watt soldering iron or one that the wattage can be adjusted.

2. Rosin core solder of 60/40 type. SN60 or SN63 is preferred.

3. Rosin flux or soldering paste (Never use solder or soldering paste designed for plumbing work, as it contains an acid that will corrode the electrical joint, ruining it).

4. 91% rubbing Alcohol, or 70%. The lower percentage will clean up flux residue, but not as good as the higher percentage stuff. Acetone does a good job of removing excess solder flux too.

5. A cut down ½” paint brush, or acid brush for scrubbing the repaired solder joint.

6. Clean rags or paper towels

7. A damp sponge to keep the soldering iron tip clean.

8. Some “Solder Wick” a braided bare copper wire designed to collect heated excess solder, aiding in joint preperation, available at electronic supply stores.

9. Some wooden toothpicks.

10. Small Hemostats or clip on heatsinks.

A. Before soldering, “Tin” the soldering iron tip by plugging it in or turning the iron on, allowing it to get to operating temperature(2-3 minutes).

B. Unroll about 3” of solder from the roll of rosin core solder & then using a clean rag or paper towel moistened with Alcohol, wipe the unrolled solder, removing the finger print oils that will create a poor solder joint.

C. Apply a small amount of solder to the now heated soldering iron tip, wiping the excess off with the wet sponge, keeping a thin layer on the soldering iron.

D. The soldering iron is now ready for use, but before applying the heated tip to a wire, wipe the tip on the damp sponge, this removes any oxidized solder and makes for a much better connection.

E. If the joint to be repaired is grey in color or appears “Crumbled”, apply some rosin soldering paste or flux to the joint with a small toothpick or screwdriver, and then apply the soldering iron tip for a few seconds.

G. The fluxed joint should clean up, allowing for a better connection. If no luck, use the solder wick to remove all traces of the old solder by apply in it between the soldering iron tip and the bad joint.

H. Hemostats and clip on heatsinks will be used to prevent the wire insulation from burning, overheating & pulling away from the connection.

I. Apply a small amount of flux to the joint to be repaired & then a very short duration of heated soldering iron tip & solder(like a few seconds or so).


J. Clean off the repaired joint with the brush & rubbing Alcohol or Acetone, the newly repaired joint should appear clean and bright, almost as if it were polished, with no voids or holes.

K. When repairing the bad or "Cold Solder Joints" (as the Electronics industry calls them), it takes really no special skills, just patience, and a place to work(along with the mentioned tools. You've got to be sober, and not stoned, as the soldering tool can be at 700 F, possibly giving the impaired bike owner severe burns.

L. If you have fine muscle control problems, have a friend do the soldering for you. Moving a wire before the electrical joint has properly set up, can create "Cold Joints" too. If possible, practice on the bench top with some scrap wires before attempting repairs on the bike.

M. This information comes from years of missile test cable and equipment assembly, when I worked at General Dynamics/Convair Division in San Diego California, on the BGM-109 Tomahawk and later on the AGM-129 Advanced Cruise Missile. This was from 1983-1993. The company had a week long soldering school, where you learned to solder meeting “Mil-Spec” standards.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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KZ750-E1 Coil wiring question 12 Jun 2012 06:35 #528424

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Hey guys,

Thanks for your replies.

@MFolks, thanks for the info. I actually managed to find the correct wire colors in the service manual, and tested everything: coils, IC Igniter, Pickup Coils and Generator/Altenator.

The thing is, the spark is still weak. I will definitly test the spark plug caps, but besides that, anything else that could cause weak spark? Coils tested in range on primary and secondary windings.


Thanks again!
"Everything has beauty, but not everyone sees it."


1982 KZ750R - Sold
1980 CX500 - Sold
1980 KZ750-E1 - Project
GSXR1100 SS - Future Project
2000 CBR600F4 - Sold
2008 DRZ400SM - Sold (Biggest mistake EVER)
2007 KTM 200 XCW - Smokin Toy :D

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KZ750-E1 Coil wiring question 12 Jun 2012 07:07 #528425

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Motor Head wrote: "File Base" has your wiring diagram.
www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/292-z750e1


I have a Non-US model, already got the diagram from another site, even though the diagram did not indicate which wires goes to which coils, but thanks anyways B)
"Everything has beauty, but not everyone sees it."


1982 KZ750R - Sold
1980 CX500 - Sold
1980 KZ750-E1 - Project
GSXR1100 SS - Future Project
2000 CBR600F4 - Sold
2008 DRZ400SM - Sold (Biggest mistake EVER)
2007 KTM 200 XCW - Smokin Toy :D

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KZ750-E1 Coil wiring question 12 Jun 2012 08:10 #528433

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-[DawG]- wrote:

Motor Head wrote: "File Base" has your wiring diagram.
www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/292-z750e1


I have a Non-US model, already got the diagram from another site, even though the diagram did not indicate which wires goes to which coils, but thanks anyways B)


Here's the link to wiring diagram in KZr FILEBASE, which shows numbers of the two spark plugs from each coil:
www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/292-z750e1









Good Fortune! :)
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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KZ750-E1 Coil wiring question 13 Jun 2012 05:09 #528763

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Patton wrote:

-[DawG]- wrote:

Motor Head wrote: "File Base" has your wiring diagram.
www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/292-z750e1


I have a Non-US model, already got the diagram from another site, even though the diagram did not indicate which wires goes to which coils, but thanks anyways B)


Here's the link to wiring diagram in KZr FILEBASE, which shows numbers of the two spark plugs from each coil:
www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/292-z750e1









Good Fortune! :)


Thank you very much. I managed to get everything working, but now there are some engine difficulties Ill post in the mechanical section.

Im sure this will also help someone else :)

Adios
"Everything has beauty, but not everyone sees it."


1982 KZ750R - Sold
1980 CX500 - Sold
1980 KZ750-E1 - Project
GSXR1100 SS - Future Project
2000 CBR600F4 - Sold
2008 DRZ400SM - Sold (Biggest mistake EVER)
2007 KTM 200 XCW - Smokin Toy :D

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KZ750-E1 Coil wiring question 28 Nov 2018 17:14 #794317

  • donconcha
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I have a kz750 h1. Just to be clear: Wich one is the positive and negative in the coil? The one in the bottom o the one in the top?
KZ 750 LTD H1 - 80
ZR 550 Zephyr 91
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KZ750-E1 Coil wiring question 28 Nov 2018 20:06 #794331

  • JR
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The red is positive and it does not matter whether it is top or bottom. They are interchangeable
1980 kz750E1, Delkevic exhaust
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