TOPIC:

Just purchased an '82 Kawasaki Spectre 750. It wasn't running when I got it. I've rebuilt the starter and am in the process of putting a new starter solenoid in. Bypassing the solenoid I can get the starter to turn the motor over. After the initial test there was no fuel getting to motor. I cleaned carbs and now I'm getting fuel to engine. I fired her up and took her out for a quick test. I got a couple blocks away, blew a fuse and she died. (Second fuse down from top) Once the fuse blew, no indicator lights worked or front headlamp and bike won't run at all. I put a new 10A fuse in and all the electrical came back on and she will run for a bit then blow the same fuse again. I'm assuming there most be a short in a wire somewhere. I've got a good multimeter and can start running down connections. I'm just not sure where to start. Can anybody point me to a flow chart for checking connections or offer any advice to help get this beast rolling? Also, I checked the exhaust headers with my laser thermometer and 1 & 2 aren't firing while 3 & 4 are strong. I pulled the plug out on 1 & 2 and they both have gas on them. I checked for spark and I see a decent blue spark in 1 & 2 but not sure if it's enough. I've got a shop manual, but electrical is my weak area. I've done plenty of work on small engines. Any help would be appreciated. I can provide any more details or pictures as necessary. Thanks!!!

The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!


Here is the most basic method I know(Taken from www.kzrider.com by member Patton)

1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one. Just 1, not both!

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go off/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.

If needed, here's the wiring diagram from KZr FILEBASE:
www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/285-z750n1

Good Fortune!

Thanks for the replies. Turns out the second slot is the main fuse and it needs a 30A instead of a 10.
I put the 30 in and it runs without blowing the fuse. Easy fix!

However, the solenoid arrived today. I put it in and tested it. The solenoid clicks but the starter doesn't turn.
I tested the cable running from solenoid to starter and I'm getting 12 + volts at the starter and it still doesnt turn.
If i hook my 100amp starter box to starter, it turns fine and will start the engine. I don't understand how starter gets 12v on positive terminal but won't turn. I'm sure it's something simple but it's beyond me at the moment. I'm looking at the wiring diagram now. Thanks again.

I'd clean all of the heavy duty cables going to the battery; the Positive(+) one from the terminal to the starter solenoid, and from it to the starter motor. And the Negative(-) one from the battery terminal to the engine mounting bolt. All must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer.


Starter Solenoid/Motor Checkout Procedure

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight. If the cables feel “Crunchy” when flexed, they may have corrosion inside the insulation, requiring replacement.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike, keep in mind some Kawasaki’s have a clutch interlock to prevent cranking the engine while it’s in gear, so the clutch lever must be squeezed.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. A website for starter motors is:

A. www.psep.biz/store/mitsuba_starter_motors_page_2.htm

B. www.nationsautoelectric.com/Kawasaki.html

C. www.whitedogbikes.com/cat--Kawasaki-Star...-Starter-Motors.html

D. www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/starters.php

E. www.dbelectrical.com/

F. www.stockers.com/index.php?dt=HS-29 (Mitsuba SM-220 12 volt 0.8KW Starter Motor)

G. http://.www.nationsautoelectric.com/Kawasaki.html

H. http:// www.dbelectrical.com/


10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.

All cables and connections have been cleaned. They look good. The battery is brand new and I had it tested when I bought it. I'm holding in the clutch when I attempt to start. All i get is a solid click from the solenoid. Tried arcing between the posts on the solenoid and nothing happens, no spark, no turning of motor. Again, when trying to start, there's 12 + volts at the positive post on starter but it doesn't turn. If i hook the jump box directly to the starter, it turns over and the bike starts. The battery itself is pushing 12.8 volts and i get same reading at starter. I'm not understanding what is wrong. Could it still be a ground issue somewhere? I've run out of ideas to try. I'm so close at this point. I don't want to take it into the shop.

I just rebuilt starter and brushes are brand new. The starter is confirmed good. I repacked grease and put in new bearings. I rode the bike today after fixing fuse issue. Motor isnt seized.

Could it somehow be the clutch lockout switch? I don't think so since the solenoid still clicks when i push starter.

For what it's worth, i have an identical 82 KZ750 Spectre shaft drive 4-cylinder, that I just did an electrical cleaning on and it starts fine now.

I could be your guniea pig if you want some kind of check done -- you tell me to disconnect a switch or jumper something and we'll see if mine gives the same result as yours.

Just an idea.

Appreciate that. I think im just going to unhook all the connectors and spray dexoit. Just ready to get her back on the road. I'll keep you updated if that works.

Just remembered something. My bike labored when I tried to start it, even with a full size car battery jumpered in.

I took off the right handlegrip switch; disassembled it and cleaned the hell out of the starter pushbutton switch's insides. Lubed it with SuperLube spray afterwards.

It started a LOT easier after that. It didn't make sense to me -- I don't think the pushbutton switch has actual starter/solenoid amperage going through it -- but I gotta say, after i cleaned that switch is cranked over real easy.

About to head down and take a look. I sprayed contact cleaner in there but I'll disassemble and see what I see.

Fully cleaned everything in the switch. No dice.