TOPIC:

I just picked up the Dyna S ignition for my '77 KZ650C. I haven't purchased the Dyna coils yet and was wondering if using the OEM coils for now is a problem? Also, are there any issues with hooking the Dyna S up I should be aware of?

Thanks

I've run Dyna for 158,000 miles with the original coils, so I'd assume it's not a problem. Put the Dyna coils on for a few hundred miles once and saw no benefit to them myself.

The dyna coils have slightly less primary resistance which would allow the energy to "refill" the primary a shade faster. If you were building a racing engine that oeprated at or near redline a lot of the time, I might believe the lower resistance coils could make a difference. For a stock engine and normal (sane) riding, I do not believe anybody would get an actual improvement based on the coils alone.

I do think the added features of being able to program/adjust the spark advance curve to the engine/headers might help a bit, but the coils themselves, I don't think so.

I purchased a Dyna S ignition and installed without the Dyna coils and my Dyna ignition module for cylinders 1 & 4 failed about a month or two later. Dyna replaced the module and I purchased the Dyna coils and have not had a problem in over 15 years. I'm not sure if the old coils had anything to do with the Dyna S failing but once mated with the Dyna coils I've not had any problems.

KraZ650 wrote:

I just picked up the Dyna S ignition for my '77 KZ650C. I haven't purchased the Dyna coils yet and was wondering if using the OEM coils for now is a problem? Also, are there any issues with hooking the Dyna S up I should be aware of?

Thanks

The main thing is NOT to use the blue connector supplied with kit. Solder that connection.... many of us had a problem there!

In review of the Dyna S ignition installation instructions, any coil set 3 ohms or higher will work.

NOTE: Not sure the below measurements/procedure is the same for your KZ650...

In my project (1976 KZ900-A4) I ohmed out the coils in reference to black (ground) and measured exactly 4.2 ohms. Spec is 3.2-4.2 ohms so I'm on the cusp.

Ohm from spark plug lead to the other for the given coil and you should measure about 30,000 ohms.

Measure between red/yellow and plug wires should be infinite. This is where I had some serious breakdowns in measurements, so the decision became easy, replace the coils. Not to mention the spark plug wires are cracked and stiff and these old coils are 30 years old after all...

I figured for an additional $120, plus $16 for the plug wire set why wouldn't I update to insure optimum performance from this electronic ignition configuration.

Meaning, other than not having to deal with points and condensers any longer, isn't this why you're converting in the first place, for OPTIMUM performance...

Just my two cents worth....

OMR

i'm a big dyna fan[in case nobody has seen my post's on the subject] but my self personaly i have been using stock kawi or suzi coils on all my sreet bikes for years and never have had a problem. i run dyna green coil's[3 ohm] or dyna blue coils[.7ohm] at the track depending on what ignition or rev limiter im using and nver had a problem with those ether. the only reason i run the stockers on the street is that i was cheap and couldn't afford to buy coil's as well as the ignition so i figured i'd run the stockers until they died so far they haven't so i keep running them.

you are just fine with that set up. Double check that the ignition resistor is removed..

volt meter on power feed to the coils. verify that there is 12 D.C.V. (not 9 d.c.v. as in battery contact points system)

Thanks for all the input....time to get at it.

I recently installed the Dyna S (DS2-2) electronic ignition on my '77 KZ650-B1.

The wire cable Dyna supplied me had only 4 wires:
1) Red. Red for +12 Vdc Battery to power 1-4 pickup.
2) Red. Red for +12 Vdc Battery to power 2-3 pickup.
3) White/Black Shrink Marker. Black for 1-4 fire signal.
4) Black/Green Shrink Marker. Green for 2-3 fire signal.

The only issue I had was how to pass the Blue/Red Marker oil pressure sensor wire since the sensor sits under the timing plate. So I ended up opening up the original points cable and removing the Blue/Red Marker wire. I then passed this original wire and the Dyna provided cable through a length of shrink tubing.

However, the Blue/Red Marker wire was too short for my installation so I found about 2" of blue wire I had lying around and terminated one end with a closed eyelet for the oil sensor screw termination. I then terminated the original wire and 2" wire with insulated OEM female and male connectors from Z1 Ent. respectively.

I only heat shrunk the ends so that the new bundle would be easier to route through the original path. The engine heat will and did shrink the heat shrink tube over time and in the final shape.

Best of success.

And this is how I connected my new cable to the existing wiring. Note that the two Red +12 Battery wires come together into one single male OEM connector at this point.

Best of success

tw.. wrote:

I purchased a Dyna S ignition and installed without the Dyna coils and my Dyna ignition module for cylinders 1 & 4 failed about a month or two later. Dyna replaced the module and I purchased the Dyna coils and have not had a problem in over 15 years.

If the stock coil was flaky and allowing an arc down path (basically an intermittent short) it would eventually blow out the driver in the ignition module. Old coils do fail gradually as the insulation in the windings breaks down. They usually start having intermittent problems when hot and then eventually fail altogether.