TOPIC:

Today I installed a Dyna S in my KZ650/750 motor.I am totally stumped?I have good compression,carbs are working fine.It was running somewhat with the points as in I was able to start it and had spark.Well installed the Dyna S and nothing checked all the plugs wires with a spare plug nothing.I have 11.87 volts to the coils checked all connections to the system it's self every thing was good just no spark.I am completely stumped anyone have any ideas to throw my way?

grinch77 wrote:

... installed a Dyna S in my KZ650/750 motor... no spark....

Would doublecheck tap-in connection of the red wire that feeds positive battery voltage to the Dyna-S.

The red wire should tap into a wire from the harness which has positive battery voltage when the ignition switch is in the ON position (i.e., a "switched" voltage source).

Sometimes the plastic clip-on wiretap (as furnished with the Dyna-S) fails to make a good connection. That's why many folks advocate soldering the tap-in instead of using the plastic clip.

The single (red/yellow??) wire under the fuel tank that has a dual connector feeding a wire to each coil is sometimes used as the switched voltage source to tap-in the new red Dyna-S wire.

In the old points system, there isn't any wire comparable to the red Dyna-S wire.

Good Luck!

I just installed the Dyna S and 3 Ohm coils on my '77 KZ650-B1 a few weeks ago.

The coil voltage indicates little without the corresponding battery voltage. Re-check and record both voltages. If the difference is much more than about 1/2 volt, would consider installing the WG Coil Re-powering mod. Do it anyways its cheap, easy, and makes the bike more reliable and better performing. Your bike needs this.

Are any of the exhaust pipes cold/cool indicating weak or no spark? If so, would consider removing all plugs, placing them against the engine and rotate the magnetic rotor so that the magnet (I marked the location with a file mark in the black paint) is over one of the pickup units and then manually move the magnet over the pickup a few times and watch for a STRONG spark. If no spark or poor spark would consider testing/replacing the associated ignition elements one at a time including plugs, caps, Hi voltage wires, coils and +12 Vdc switched (Yellow W/Red Marker) tap in wire (remember to solder this tap as Patton already and wisely suggested).

Did you build the test light to do the static timing as indicated in Dyna's installation instructions or did you go straight to the timing light to do the dynamic timing? If so, what were your results. If the test light always stayed on then the associated pickup is faulty or the pickup is too far from the rotor. Loosen the pickup and move closer and or swap pickups and see if the fault follows the pickup (all this is in your installation instructions).

Best of success.

PS
Add your year, model and location to your signature. It improves the responses and is considered very friendly too.
Bill

I have 11.87 at the battery and at the coils the only reason it's under 12 is I tried to start it before testing voltages.As for the switched 12v power wire I soldered a 14g wire to it then clamped it into the connector then tested the voltage on the spade it was 11.87.I put on newer 750 coils that tested out good at the shop I bought them at and put on new wires also prior to the Dyna install.

The way everything tests out I should be able to fire it right up.I have checked,re checked and checked again.The harness was built by the PO so I pulled it apart and rebuilt it a few months ago and soldered all the crappy crimps together and cleaned it up.The bike was running fine with the 650 motor until the rings gave out so I threw a 750 in and swapped all the electrical stuff over from the 650.Three days ago it was able to fire right up and idle fine with the points set up but they were shot so I got the Dyna and now nothing .I'm sure it's something stupid I am missing.



Thanks for the help guys it is appreciated.

My info has been in my sig does it not show up for you Bill?

Reviewing basics:

Signal wire from lefthand Dyna-S module goes to coil firing outside sparkplugs.

Signal wire from righthand Dyna-S module goes to coil firing inside sparkplugs.

Assure magnet spot on Dyna-S rotor is at 9 o'clock position when F mark for cylinders #1/4 aligns with case timing mark.

Assure coil primary terminals (screw heads) are not shorted against the coil mounting spacer.

Would do ohm check on secondary windings (measure between insides of plug caps) to assure continuity of the high tension loop (integrity of plug wire connections).

Just shotgunning.

Good Luck!

Signal wire from lefthand Dyna-S module goes to coil firing outside sparkplugs.
CHECK

Signal wire from righthand Dyna-S module goes to coil firing inside sparkplugs.
CHECK

Assure magnet spot on Dyna-S rotor is at 9 o'clock position when F mark for cylinders #1/4 aligns with case timing mark.
CHECK

Assure coil primary terminals (screw heads) are not shorted against the coil mounting spacer.
NOT TO SURE ABOUT THIS ONE??

Would do ohm check on secondary windings (measure between insides of plug caps) to assure continuity of the high tension loop (integrity of plug wire connections).

WILL CHECK IN THE MORNING

grinch77 wrote:

... Assure coil primary terminals (screw heads) are not shorted against the coil mounting spacer.
NOT TO SURE ABOUT THIS ONE??....

To clarify, the small space between screw head and mounting spacer is a possible issue on Z1 and KZ900 (and maybe KZ1000), but might not be such a close fit on the KZ650.

Would also verify continuity of signal wire from each coil to Dyna-S. And assure each coil terminal reaches ground through its respective Dyna-S module until the rotor magnet aligns with the module (which alignment interrupts the ground whereby the coil fires).

Given positive battery voltage reaching a good coil, and continuity throughout the secondary loop, and good sparkplugs, and coil signal wire grounded --- the coil is poised to fire and should fire when its primary ground is interrupted. If the sparkplugs fail to fire, am thinking one or more of these "givens" is absent.

I suppose its possible the plug wires are leaking voltage (from a deteriorated condition). Hope they are new Dyna solid metal core (not resistor core) plug wires that came with the caps already built in.

Old (faulty) or improperly installed plug caps can also be an issue in the secondary loop.

Good Luck!

P.S. Should be certain of having a good fully charged battery (regardless of voltage shown) with clean tight cable connections at terminals and a good ground where negative cable attaches to engine or frame.

Does battery easily spin over the engine while cranking?

I just noticed that the 1/4 coil is getting hot but the 2/3 coil stays cold.But both coils are getting voltage.

I swapped the points back in and have all the spark I could need so either I have a bunk Dyna or I just don't have the timing any where near set right.But even with the timing off I should be getting spark somtime right?

air gap too wide ?

trippivot wrote:

air gap too wide ?

Is that the gap between the rotor and the pick ups?

Yes that's the gap.

Did you follow the installation instructions on static timing with a test light?

If so, the test light should have gone OFF when the rotor's magnet passed over the pickup. If it did not then:
- The pickup is bad. Swap pickups and retest.
- The rotor to pickup gap is too great. Loosen the two screws with the hex tool provided. Then move the pickup closer and retest. This is the problem I had with my recent installation and re-gaping eliminated the symptom. Now it runs way-past-great.

If the test light never went ON in the first place then the wiring is not correct. Recheck the wiring and especially the ground. All this installation and troubleshooting should be detailed in the installation instructions you received with the kit.

Best of success.