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Testing Voltage Regulator and Rectifier 26 Jun 2008 22:59 #222462

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loudhvx wrote:

wiredgeorge wrote:

This definitely doesn't sound right to me. Perhaps a 650 owner will jump in here. Shouldn't be a green wire coming out of the stator nor should the three yellow wires be soldered to the rectifier bridge.


The green wire powers the field coil. Its power is controlled by the regulator. It's a unique alternator... only used on the 77 650, some KZ400's and possibly a few others.

The other end of the field coil is grounded.

Start by checking the voltage on the green wire at the regulator, while it's not running, but turned on. It should be the same as battery voltage. Use the battery negative terminal as the ground reference for the meter.

In my opinion, this type of alternator is better when it's working. It's far more efficient at handling varying loads.


It's the basic alternator design used in car alternators, except they typically tie the field winding to +12V on one end and use a transistor to control the current in the negative end of the winding. It requires windings on both the stator and rotor assembly. The usual bike alternator has a permanent magnet rotor which requires SCR control for regulating voltage, but the rotor is simpler (no wiring to it). The kind with dual windings can control the voltage by varying the current in the field winding which is easy to do.
1979 KZ-750 Twin

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Testing Voltage Regulator and Rectifier 26 Jun 2008 23:24 #222465

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bountyhunter wrote:

loudhvx wrote:

wiredgeorge wrote:

This definitely doesn't sound right to me. Perhaps a 650 owner will jump in here. Shouldn't be a green wire coming out of the stator nor should the three yellow wires be soldered to the rectifier bridge.


The green wire powers the field coil. Its power is controlled by the regulator. It's a unique alternator... only used on the 77 650, some KZ400's and possibly a few others.

The other end of the field coil is grounded.

Start by checking the voltage on the green wire at the regulator, while it's not running, but turned on. It should be the same as battery voltage. Use the battery negative terminal as the ground reference for the meter.

In my opinion, this type of alternator is better when it's working. It's far more efficient at handling varying loads.


It's the basic alternator design used in car alternators, except they typically tie the field winding to +12V on one end and use a transistor to control the current in the negative end of the winding. It requires windings on both the stator and rotor assembly. The usual bike alternator has a permanent magnet rotor which requires SCR control for regulating voltage, but the rotor is simpler (no wiring to it). The kind with dual windings can control the voltage by varying the current in the field winding which is easy to do.


The KZ design is superior, in my opinion, to a car alternator. The KZ does not use brushes or slip rings, so there are no parts to wear. Also, the field coil and stator both are stationary. This prevents the failures plaguing Honda CB type alternators where engine vibration makes the rotating field coil become intermittent. The KZ's weak point is the mechanical regulator. I designed a few adjustable solid state ones which allowed the alternator to hold a steady 14v even near idle. This alternator (on 400's and the77 650) seems to have more total power also, than the permanent magnet ones, while not wasting HP at higher RPMs. Unfortunately, the extra wiring and seperate regulator made them less desirable and they sometimes get put out to pasture.

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Testing Voltage Regulator and Rectifier 27 Jun 2008 12:05 #222521

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loudhvx wrote:

The KZ's weak point is the mechanical regulator. I designed a few adjustable solid state ones which allowed the alternator to hold a steady 14v even near idle.


Sounds like a good schematic to post for the techno geeks like me.
1979 KZ-750 Twin

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Testing Voltage Regulator and Rectifier 31 Aug 2014 11:41 #645743

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So...if my battery reads 11.96 V and my regulator reads 10v at the green wire?

How do you test the old school regulator? It has 3 wires there should be a couple differnt tests, right? I don't have $60 for a new regulator sorry I'm a poor Detroit minister.

thx revpops
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Attachment pops77kaw.jpg not found


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Testing Voltage Regulator and Rectifier 31 Aug 2014 14:26 #645750

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Kawasaki made MANY different model motorcycles. They do not all have the same charging systems. In order to help you it is important that you identify the year and specific model of your motorcycle. It is best to simply add that information to your signature line so you do not need to remember it in every posting. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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Testing Voltage Regulator and Rectifier 01 Sep 2014 06:02 #645789

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The bike appears to be a 77 Kz650 in the photo, but I can't be 100% sure. It looks like there may be the extra screws on the alt cover. Post the model in your signature, like Ed said, but you may want to remove your phone number lest you get a bunch of spam phone calls.

If it is a 77 KZ650, then the regulator may be ok, as the green wire should have near the battery voltage when the bike is not running, or idling slowly.

The next step is to measure the AC voltage on the three yellow wires at the rectifier while the rectifier is disconnected (they may be three white wires). Measure the ac voltage wire to wire.

If you have a manual, it will have much more detail on how to perform the testing, but beware, the 77 KZ650 is different from all other Kz650 charging systems, so be sure to only pay attention to 1977-specific instructions for testing.

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Testing Voltage Regulator and Rectifier 07 Sep 2014 06:25 #646543

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RevPops Detroit reporting...internet been out!
Thanks again for all your input very insightful.

Also I did RTFM and take electronics at my local community college last year so I can troubleshoot AC/DC. they kicked me out for calling an admin lady a Fxxxin Bxxxch,

Holy Shit Batman no power in Detroit for 2 days...glad I have my 9 horse honda generator...man are my niggas jealous...anway.
Its a 77 kz650 B
I got the new condensers it started up and ran rough. then I revved it and it made a clacking sound (like a chain jumpiing teeth?) and blew oil out the tailpipe and died.

I pulled the heads and everything looked fine, other than oil in everything.
there was oil in the air filter...so i drained the oil and it was well over a gallon.
There should only be 3 1/2 quarts or so, which means I over filled the oil!
Wow granpa losing it already at 57?

Anyway Ima put it all back and try again. The head gasket looks fine.

SO the final question remains>>>>>>

COULD this bike have acted that way if the ONLY problem was the pothead putting too much oil in it? Or is there a mystery inner seal or some shite I'm missing.
Also - did the timing chain jump, do i need a new oneor do i need a tensioner adjustment? I never did quite get that tensioner thing an I think my book was talking about a different onee than mine?
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Testing Voltage Regulator and Rectifier 07 Sep 2014 14:52 #646600

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what about the timing chain; how do you verify if it's ok or stretched out?

I'll prolly find it in the manual but im autistic bad at reading, good at pictures.

Everything looks tight. Still cleaning parts...what fun!
I have a phone - 720-270-0154
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Testing Voltage Regulator and Rectifier 19 Sep 2014 08:12 #648058

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What if the bike won;t start? I have a red oil light but no green neutral light (in neutral). Regulator seems OK and new rectifier and new condensers, coils check out. Starter works but has to be jumped at solenoid, not with button on handlebars.

Please assist. RevPops aka matt Pittaway
720-270-0154 Detroit, Mi 48228
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Testing Voltage Regulator and Rectifier 19 Sep 2014 17:22 #648101

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Different KZ models have very different charging systems.

Some folks have solid experience with some charging systems and zero experience with other charging systems.

Consequently, you may have more success getting good advice if folks reading your questions know which year and model motorcycle you are working on.

The easiest and surest way to provide that info is to add the year and model to your signature line (down at the bottom where you show "I have a phone - 720-270-0154 ") rather than trying to remember to key in that info every time you post a question.

Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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Testing Voltage Regulator and Rectifier 19 Sep 2014 18:47 #648107

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Including information about bike year and model is helpful to viewers and usually elicits better responses.

It's easy to put the information in your signature where it shows in all posted messages, past and future.

And the signature may be changed whenever and as often as desired.

If wanting a signature showing information about the bike in posted messages, it's easy to do.

Here's how:





Good Fortune! :)
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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