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As far as needing the resistor: if the coil was designed to be used without a resistor, it will not have a problem with +12V tied directly to it. However, a lower resistance coil will draw a little more current from the bike's electrical system. if you substitute say a 3 Ohm coil for a 4 Ohm coil, it could draw as much as 1A more per coil, 2A total on a four cylinder bike. That shouldn't blow any fuses, but just remember it is drawing more current.

the shop manuals specify 1.5 ohm. resistor for this ign. setup.its primary function being to keep the voltage from spiking to the coils and pickups.

If that's true, use the resistor. Adding it won't stop the coil from working, it will just lower the spark voltage a tad and there is likely plenty to spare.

The resistor is a current limiting device, and is used with 1.5ohm coils. On vehicles designed to use 1.5ohm coils, there is a relay (or switch) that cuts the resistor out of the circuit during starting. This compensates for the voltage drop due to the starter motor and (in theory) helps give a fatter spark so the engine fires more easily. Once started, the resistor is switched back in so that the coil doesn't take too much current and overheat!

Electronic ignitions typically eliminate the resistor (called a "ballast" resistor), BUT they also cannot handle the current draw of the 1.5ohm coil, so you must use approximately 3ohm coils with electronic ignition systems. (And note that 2.5 or 2.9 ohms is considered "approximately" 3 ohms!)

By the way, auto stores will often refer to the 1.5ohm coils as 6 volt coils, and 3ohm ones as 12v. If you think about Ohm's law, a 1.5ohm coil at 6v is drawing the same current as a 3ohm coil at 12v - AND a 1.5ohm coil with a 1.5 ohm resistor (total 3ohms) will draw the same current as a 3ohm coil!

Sorry, this was a longer rant than anticipated, hope it helps!

I believe Ive got what I need now, thanks a lot for putting up with me guys. Ill help anyone I can and I appreciate the same