TOPIC:

I wonder if BR8ES plugs will be enough to do the trick, I snagged four of them on my lunch break.

I wonder if what I will really need is suppression core wires either with B8ES plugs i've already been using, or in addition to the BR8ES resistor plugs...

My local bike shop has Dyna wire kits but only the 7mm copper in stock, no suppression core.

I wonder if any auto parts stores would have what i need? I know they won't be Dyna, but I wonder if they would have an Accel or comparable kit with the 135 degree tips on one side, and I could trim and crimp the coil side.... ???

sheik*yerbouti wrote:

A ha! A change in results!!!

Analog meter shows 0.00 volts between battery negative and any point on the frame or engine! The friggin needle doesn't even twitch!

It is also rock steady between the battery terminals when running, not jumping around at all!

What does this tell me guys!?

Is it EMI / RFI then?

So what is my regulator going to see and what will it pass to the battery when I hook this all back up tomorrow?

What do you think BH and others?

I think maybe the digital meters have a high input impedance and were picking up AC noise and reading that on the display. The standard input impedance of a dig meter is 10 Meg Ohms. Analog meters have a much lower input impedance.

I don't know if my kawi has resistor wires because the wires are molded into the coil assembly so I never measured them. Couldn't hurt to try resistor wires if you can't get it to work with standard wires.

The fix is in...! Resistor plugs did it. As soon as I swapped in the freshly gapped BR8ES's, both of my digital voltmeters shows 0.00vdc from the frame to battery negative.

Just rode 60+ miles, many of which were over 4500rpm intentionally and the Odyssey PC545 sealed dry cell battery was barely warm, the RR was very warm - as it should be dissapating the excess charge from the 130% OEM strength Electrosport Stator - and no acid leaked from the battery even though it is run on it's side...

I've learned a lot about the KZ's charging system, gained a $60 multimeter and a 10" long ground tapped into the frame, and am very happy that the solution has been found.

It's time to ride longer distances and have no fear about the first bike I ever wired from scratch!

Besides, even a bike this bad ass can't put up a fight forever...

That thing looks fast sitting still....

130% OEM strength Electrosport Stator

Tell me more about this.
Are all their stators rated at 130% of OEM? Or is this a special heavy duty model?

Boosting the current 20 amp output of my KZ750E to 26 amps would sure make me feel more secure about having enough power available to recharge the battery while powering the electric fuel pump and the EFI system.

After reading this thread it made me wonder about the plugs in my bike. They are a non resistor plug. What is the point of using a non resistor plug rather than a resistor plug (B7ES vs BR7ES)?

MCH650SR wrote:

After reading this thread it made me wonder about the plugs in my bike. They are a non resistor plug. What is the point of using a non resistor plug rather than a resistor plug (B7ES vs BR7ES)?

I have tried both in my 750 twin and saw no difference. You get a little hotter spark with OUT the resitor plugs and wires because you don't drop any significant voltage along the wire or electrode getting to the plug. But, the air gap is a pretty large resistance so the resistor wires and plugs effect isn't horrible. Unless you are getting noise in your radio (if you have one) or some problem, resistor parts are not necessary and don't enhance performance. They are mainly to reduce EMI which would put a whine in your radio.

steell wrote:

130% OEM strength Electrosport Stator

Tell me more about this.
Are all their stators rated at 130% of OEM? Or is this a special heavy duty model?

Boosting the current 20 amp output of my KZ750E to 26 amps would sure make me feel more secure about having enough power available to recharge the battery while powering the electric fuel pump and the EFI system.

Actually I double checked and the stator that my KZ1000 uses is listed as a 20% stronger HD stator -> www.electrosport.com/street/street-model...ing-street_52950.php

Actually I checked your KZ750E model and it says the same thing -> www.electrosport.com/street/street-model...ing-street_50750.php

They recommend using one of their RR's as well when using one of the HD stators...

MCH650SR wrote:

After reading this thread it made me wonder about the plugs in my bike. They are a non resistor plug. What is the point of using a non resistor plug rather than a resistor plug (B7ES vs BR7ES)?

BTW: they also make resistor plug caps that go on the end of the plug wire. I remembered that mine has those, they are something easy to add and Z1 sells them. That's where I got mine.