TOPIC:

You'll probably want 14 gauge for the heaviest current wires. And probably 16 and 18 for the rest.

You can always go heavier if you want to reduce the number of rolls of wire you have to buy.

This diagram errors on the heavy side for sure. You might even get away with 16 gauge where I show the 14 as long as you are using the stock ignition setup and stock headlight wattage.

1982 KZ550 bare bones for Nkymain485




EDIT 1/9/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1982 Kawasaki Kz550 for Nkymain485 (not Nkymain458 )
Kz 550

I'll start a new topic with the details for Hardrock68, but this is the bare bones version for his 77 650 C1.

1977 KZ650 KZ650C1 bare bones with Dyna S for Hardrock68.

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EDIT 1/9/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1977 Kawasaki Kz650C1 with Dyna S for Hardrock68
Kz650C Kz650 C1 Kz 650 C 650C1 650C

Ok Loud I went ahead and installed the permanent magnet system; honestly it was because I had the parts here and because they make an over-wound stator that I may use if needed...


However I have no Idea what to do with the brown wire (pos for lights?) because the reg/rec only has 3 yellow in, one positive and one ground. I think I just hook the brown to the positive out but I want to be sure.


Also when you saw power for lights and power for ground will these run my current lighting system as it is (gauge lights, indicators, high/low beam) and if so where do I tie them in? (in the 9 pin or back by the battery).

Do you know any place to pick up wire in about 20' sections in the colors I will need? (I ordered some from z1 but it is all 16 gauge, I would prefer 14... what do you think?)

Thanks for the help, wiring really is black magic to me!

So you installed a 650 alternator from 78 or 79? Those are single phase, and their combo regulator/rectifiers don't have the brown wire. But some later reg/rec combos do. I drew in the brown wire, but if your reg/rec doesn't have the brown wire, then just ignore that wire.

As far as lighting, how much stuff are you keeping?
Headlight high and low?
High beam indicator?
Tail?
Brake?
Turn signals?
Turn signal dash indicator light?
Tach?
Speedo?
Brake light indicator?
Neutral light?
Oil pressure light?


That's a whole lot of other stuff to wire.

My rec/reg does not have a brown wire, so what do I connect the brown wire to now?


tail
brake
turn signals all need to stay for inspections


oil
neutral
and gauge lights I would really like to keep

I don't know maybe I will just keep replacing the harness one section at a time as needed.

hardr0ck68 wrote:

My rec/reg does not have a brown wire, so what do I connect the brown wire to now?

The brown wire (to the reg/rec) will not exist, then. Just leave it out entirely.

Here it is with the lights. The gauge lights would be added the same way. Lights just need a positive connection and a ground connection. Once you add the gauges and all the lights, it's not really a bare-bones anymore. it's pretty much a stock electrical system. In that case, you'd probably be better off with a new harness.

1977 KZ650 KZ650C1 bare bones, with Dyna S and 1978 or later charging system, for Hardrock68.



EDIT 1/9/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1977 Kawasaki Kz650C1 with later charging system and Dyna S for Hardrock68
Kz650C Kz650 C1 Kz 650 C 650C1 650C
Charging system is later 1-phase system and should not have brown wire on the stock regulator.
Some aftermarket regulators had the brown wire.
If the brown wire does not exist on the regulator, ignore it on the drawing.

for cafekz750:
These are the modifications for making a stock 1981 KZ750 H into a batteryless bike. Assuming the rest of the diagram is stock, these are the changes that need to be made.

The relay is a generic automotive relay available at most autoparts stores. If the relay has two 87 terminals, just ignore one. If it has an 87a terminal, ignore that.



EDIT 1/9/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1981 Kawasaki Kz750H2 batteryless for cafekz750
Kz750H Kz750 H2 Kz 750 H 750H2 750H




EDIT 1/9/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1977 Kawasaki Kz1000A for DangerMan
Kz1000 A Kz 1000 A 1000A




EDIT 1/9/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1981 Kawasaki Kz550A2 for Suckerpunchjohnny
Kz550A Kz550 A2 Kz 550 A 550A2 550A




EDIT 1/9/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1977 Kawasaki Kz650B1 for Brian
Kz650B Kz650 B1 Kz 650 B 650B1 650B

1982 KZ550C3 KZ550 C3 bare bones for Toolboy

EDIT 1/9/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1982 Kawasaki Kz550C3 for Toolboy
Kz550C Kz550 C3 Kz 550 C 550C3 550C

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EDIT 1/9/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1977 Kawasaki Kz400S3 for Dingo007 using oil pressure switch to control headlight and tail light.
Kz400S Kz400 S3 Kz 400 S 400S3 400S

EDIT 1/9/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1981 Kawasaki Kz1000K1 with Acewell tach for Freebyrd24
Kz1000K Kz1000 K1 Kz 1000 K 1000K1 1000K

To Freebyrd24:

The stock diagram uses the battery terminal as the point for running all of the positive wires. I prefer using the solenoid as the main connection point. That way the battery just has two big wires to it. It's easier to remove the battery and looks neater.

Please double check my wiring with the stock diagram. It's in the filebase thanks to McDroid.

Thanks Loudhvx! You are the man! This type of information on this forum is absolutely invaluable!! I really appreciate this!

For John8, 1981 KZ 1000 J1.

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EDIT 1/9/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1981 Kawasaki Kz1000J1 using car ignition switch for John8
Kz1000J Kz1000 J1 Kz 1000 J 1000J1 1000J

Awsome...Thank you very much. I do have a few questions though.
I'm sure you expected that:laugh: Ok....I was at the auto store and found a key switch with four points to attatch wires. One for the starter, one for the battery, one for ignition and one for accessory. The old key switch does not fit where I want to instal it, plus I don't need all of the extra wires.I wanted to know if I need a kill/start switch with this kind of set up? Also I have four wires comming out of the engine, three yellow, which I know are for the Regulator/Rectifier a light green one and a blue with red stripe that I cannot find on any wiring diagram. I am going to upload a pic to help giving a better picture of the situation. Can you please tell me what these are? If you can would you please draw me a diagram with the key switch integrated. Thank you for your time as I am sure it is valuable.

I found that the blue/red and light green are oil pressure and netural wires. So that question is answered.....

You don't need a kill switch, but if your key switch will be hidden somewhere it may be tricky to kill the motor quickly if you have to.

Are you saying you want to use the new key switch for starting too? If not, then you'll need the start button, and the kill switch is in the same housing, so I'd keep them both. If you do want to start it like a car, then you can eliminate the right hand control switches entirely.

Be warned, though, those cheap key switches in the blister packs at auto parts stores fail very quickly. They are not made well. I've had several friends use them, and they fell apart from vibration after about a season.

I would like to use it like a power on. I have a kill and start switch I can use. I just want to clean the bars up and put the key switch on the outside of the battery box I am making.

I am just not sure what wires go to what on the diagram you made for me go on the ignition I bought.Everything else is very clear.