TOPIC:

YOu should be able to get your rectifier and regulator from
www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com
in Oregon... how convenient.

If the fuse is getting hot, there couldbe a bad connection at the fuse. It is very common for the fuse contacts to be so dirty they heat up.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2007/08/22 02:40

The fuse contact look great as far as I can tell, but I'll pull out the fuses and give them a good cleaning.

The bike is outting out little to no charge when it get even close to idle which concerns me a bit...

If cleaning the fuses and the metal parts of the fuse holders does not eliminate the hot fuse symptom you may want to consider upgrading to a more modern "blade" type fuse... I eventually had to.

This is what mine ended up looking like. Notice that I added a separate 5 Amp fuse for the WG Coil Re-powering Mod.



Best of success!

Post edited by: bill_wilcox100, at: 2007/08/22 13:14

Post edited by: bill_wilcox100, at: 2007/08/22 13:18

Interestingly, I had the same problem start to happen as I was riding last night, and I remembered seeing this thread.

The headlight was running rather dim, and when I turned on the turn signals, or applied the brakes, the headlight would return to full brightness.

When I got the bike back home and started looking at the wiring, I found that the white wire that comes out of the (+) battery cable (and terminates in a double connector, with one wire going to the fusebox, and the other going to the rectifier, I think) had corroded clear through on the end where it attaches to the battery cable. I clipped off the end of the wire where it was corroded, crimped on a loop connector (not sure if that is the proper name for it), and connected the wire to the (+) post of the starter solenoid. Problem solved.

Well I'm really glad to hear that, as I know the wiring is good, it makes me more confident in my failed rectifier theory...thanks.