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It's so easy to spend your money.


Z1E Combo

Assume I should be getting (in a perfect world) the same readings from both the back probed brown and the battery terminals. Yes?

My understanding so far is that the lower the brown wire reading, the higher the battery terminal reading would be. Yes?

If all above correct, and I pull a new/good/better brown (switched lead) for the reg' and the brown to the reg' is then better (higher reading), won't the battery terminal reading go down?

Thanks.

BARNEYHYPHEN wrote:

Assume I should be getting (in a perfect world) the same readings from both the back probed brown and the battery terminals. Yes?

I'm not sure what you mean by back-probed.
When the ignition key is on, the brown wire, and battery's positive terminal should have the same voltage relative to the battery's ground terminal.
But the world is not perfect (actually the word to use is "ideal"), so normally you'd want to see .5v or less difference. Higher difference means bad contacts and such along the path. Fuse holders and the ignition switch are the big culprits.

BARNEYHYPHEN wrote:

My understanding so far is that the lower the brown wire reading, the higher the battery terminal reading would be. Yes?

Not exactly. The bigger the difference is from battery to brown, the higher the regulator's upper limit will be above the norm.

In other words, if the brown wire is low because the battery is low, but both are the same low voltage, the regulator will operate normally. But if the battery is high, and the brown is low, the regulator will make the battery voltage go higher than it should.

(Normally, there is no way to make the brown higher than battery.)

It is the difference from battery to brown that matters. (As above, it should ideally be the same when the bike is on).



BARNEYHYPHEN wrote:

If all above correct, and I pull a new/good/better brown (switched lead) for the reg' and the brown to the reg' is then better (higher reading), won't the battery terminal reading go down?

Yes, if the regulator is working normally, and hooked up normally, raising the voltage on the brown will make the battery voltage lower, but only when the regulator is limiting the voltage (i.e. at higher RPMs).

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2007/08/03 21:37

Loud, What I mean by "back probbed" is that I am pushing the red probe from the meter I'm using into the back of the plug to make contact with the brown wire, whilst leaving the plug actually plugged in to the patch panel.

I'll try to get to the new brown, spliced from the rear light switched wire, this evening. Thanks

Is it possible I've found the problem?

Took the headlight out last night to tidy up the mess of wires in there. Got half way done when called away to complete jet another honeydo task.

Got on the bike with son around 7pm and went for a 20 mile ride. when we got done we noticed we had left the headlight off (in the garage) for the whole ride.

We turned the bike off and had a drink. Came back out about 40 mins later and the bike started (healthily) on the starter button. Hasn't done that for 6 weeks?

I usually ride with full beam all the time. Could it be possible that my H4 headlight at full beam + Dyna S + WG coil rewire is sapping all the output from the Stator and not leaving any to recharge the battery?

Thanks

How many watts in that bulb?

OKC, It says H4 12v 60/55w. It was an aftermarket lense/bulb unit bought a couple of years ago from JCW.

I was just thinking if it was a high watt 80/100 bulb maybe it was too much draw on the system.

Bike started again this morning on the starter (no kickstart). All good so far.