TOPIC:

OK I will follow them. I was just timing it statically to begin with, i actually picked up an inductive timing light the other day and planned on using that after i timed it statically. I took the tank off to connect the test light to the coil.

I started going through the list and i made it to step 5 without any problems, everything before hand seems to be in order. But now I'm a little confused.

5. Reconnect this connector if the white wire is hot. OK... find the right switch gear connector in your head light shell that connects with the ignition switch. Look at the color of the wire that goes INTO your right switchgear to the kill switch by opening up the switchgear and looking. Disconnect the connector between the ignition switch and switchgear, turn key on and look for 12VDC on the pin that connects to the wire that goes to the kill switch. If you have no power, the ignition swich is bad.


What exactly is the right switchgear connector? Are the switchgear connectors the two white things that have all the wires leading into them? Aside from that I'm just a little confused on what to disconnect and test. I really appreciate all the help; thanks again.

-Glen

Hey, i went through the list, and everything seems to be working correctly. The only thing, when i test the black wire that's sodered to the igition button it reads 11.54v, is that too little, should it be 12 or more?

One more question, could a burned out coil be the cause of the engine not turning over? Because my left coil doesn't measure any secondary resistance. Or would it just not run, but still turn over? Thanks.

A bad coil will NOT cause your bike not to turn over

As katjbus said, a bad coil will not cause the engine to not turnover.. The engine turning over means it turns over but won't start.. Sounds like your getting juice to the coils though.. It also sounds like your using your electric start.. My kill switch just went bad but that caused my coils to get no juice and the engine wouldn't turn over.. The hot wire from the fuse box goes to the kill switch and then to the coils.. What happens when you use the kick starter? If your getting juice to the coils, it should fire up.. You can jump the starter to see if it's still working.. Sounds like somehting along those lines.. Do your lights work? Have you checked your fuses?

Glen4747 wrote:

...left coil doesn't measure any secondary resistance...

Could be secondary winding failure, but believe there's a break between coil and external plug tip.

When connecting the ohmmeter between plug caps, the resistence is being measured through the plug cap, connection to the plug wire, plug wire, connection to the coil, secondary winding inside the coil, and back through all the same hoops to the other plug cap.

Suspects:
Faulty connection between plug wire and coil.
Old deteriorated plug wire.
Faulty connection between plug wire and plug cap.
Faulty plug cap.

Would first assure good connection between end of plug wire and plug cap. If enough slack available, unscrew and remove plug cap. Inspect end of plug wire. If appears necessary, snip off about 1/4 inch of plug wire to gain fresh connection site. Apply dielectric grease and screw cap onto plug wire. Repeat for other plug wire.

Re-test resistance (ohm reading) through secondary winding. Hope there's a reading this time.

Use more dielectric grease on top of plugs, and affix caps to plugs.

Fingers crossed.

Glen4747 wrote:

...left coil doesn't measure any secondary resistance...

BTW, do not believe this is related to the type of ignition trigger system, points, Dyna, or otherwise.

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/06/27 19:34

The lights work, and the bike is fairly new to me, and i never got the kickstart to work. I'll try jump starting it. and all the fuses have continuity. Thanks again,

-Glen

p.s. While i was timing it initially i noticed the killswitch, and starter button housing got pretty hot, could this have ruined the button or switch?

Post edited by: Glen4747, at: 2007/06/27 19:34

Could be after a period of time the build up on the contacts in the switch cause a high resistance wich will cause heat, pull it apart and clean it up check it out

Ok I think I'm getting close. I believe that the black wire is broken somewhere between the solenoid and the male end of the main switch gear. I get a reading on the multimeter when i test the starter button at both the solder connection in the right hand controls and at the female end of the white switchgear that the black wire goes to. But i don't get a reading from the male end of the switchgear to the black wire on the solenoid, and i bridged the gap with a test light as well and it did not light up either.

Is this an easy fix? Could i just cut the black wire near the ends and splice a new one routed on the outside of the wiring harness? If i can't do that what can i do? Thanks for all the help.

-Glen

I might have missed it but have you tried to jump the solenoid to see if it will turn over, At the solenoid when you hit the button do you or dont you have power

At the solenoid i don't get power when i push the button, and yes I have jumped the solenoid and it did turn over.