TOPIC:

I still use a Mercury type uv had for nearly 20years.

the book calls for backing off the Idle screw so it's up against the stop but mine will not go to the stop and the book calls for a new bracket if



it won't.
will backing the slides off close this?

Yes, your slides are all catywompus. Put the adjuster in the middle and set your slides with a drill bit as a gauge on the bench.
Steve

I believe I got it. Misunderstood what the book was sayin

I am new to this forum and have not yet figured out how to build a profile. II want to extend a personal Thank You to an Administrator named "Patton". I am an older rider and purchased my 1975 Z1b on March 17, 1975. I still have that bike, the warranty cars, ac complete, original tool kit, the Owner's manual Another small manual and the 1975 factory service manual all in excellent condition but some parts of the service manual were confusing and this forum, and Mr. Patton, have been a huge blessing in supplementing that manual allowing me to figure out what I needed to know. The bike now has 24,000 original miles and is all original except for the front tire which had dry rotted so bad that even though it still held air I knew it needed to be replaced. The back tire is low on tread but it is still the original tire. Honestly, it is. The mufflers are original Kawasaki mufflers with the name and serial number on each one. They are as new. The bike has been in dry, heated, storage for about three years and was ridden intermittently in prior years. Always garaged. In deciding to start riding it again I needed to clean it up and do some motor tuning. The brakes are perfect, as is the clutch but once it was started it would not idle below 2500-3000 rpm unless the choke was half on and the throttle response was terrible. The motor instantly died if I moved the choke anywhere near it's off position. From Mr. Patton's postings I learned how to properly bench sync the carburetors and that the Pilot jets needed to be cleaned out to resolve the idle problem. All four were blocked solid. They have a .0175 orifice in their center so I used a .014" smooth wire, a lot of carburetor solvent and cleaned them out. I used one of those red nozzle tubes from a WD40 can and sanded the end down a little so it would fit into the end of the Pilot Jet the plugged the other end into the carb cleaner aerosol can. Each jet blew a sold stream of carb cleaner once they were cleaned out. I have now reset float levels, weighed the floats on a gram scale and they varied from 9.8 to 9.9 grams. A brand new, unused, old stock float, still in it's wrapper, was 9.9 grams. I also reset all the slides using .026", .028" and .30, gauge wire accurate to .0005". It was tedious but now the .028: wire will pass through the slot on the engine side of the slides, but not the .030" wire. I also checked each carb's needle and seat and main jet. Tonight i started the bike. It runs like it's new. It idles perfectly, revs up shockingly fast and does not smoke. A short ride proved the clutch was still smooth, the transmission shifts perfectly and the engine was smooth. I am thinking I should replace the original rear tire. This forum has been an invaluable source of technical information and I truly appreciate being able to access it. Looking forward to learning more as I go along.

Welcome. Start your own thread with pics of the bike. I also bought my 75 Z1b new. Pics,pics, pics, need pics.
Steve

Pics on the way, coming soon.
Thank you for the welcome.

When bench sync. mine I found number two is the lead carb.

What worked for me may not be right but this is how I bench'd mine
backed the idle speed screw passed the stop then set number two slide dead closed
then turned the idle screw till the smallest drill bit I have was a slight drag and then set the
other three to match for a base line sync.

My little bike being track only idle sync.'s not that important to me it just has to idle good enough
to build heat in the motor..
Hell if I did mine were I use them I'd need a deep well 9/16 socket for a gage.