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Warming up to idle 31 Aug 2015 07:40 #688014

  • Hazard_Mark
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Greetings all,

I'm a relatively new rider. I've had my bike about a year. 1982 KZ750 Spectre. As I've been able to do and understand more about the bike, I have come to realize that it takes quite a long time for the bike to get to a point where I can open the choke all the way without the bike stalling out. I also notice that when I'm riding +80mph if I completely release the throttle the bike again will shut-off. Sometimes I can get it to restart while coasting. Other times I will have to pull off to the side and adjust the choke in order to get a restart. The bike has been like this since I got it but nothing that kept me from riding. I did a carb cleaning earlier in the season, as well as oil and filter changes. Thanks for your help all.

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Last edit: by Hazard_Mark.

Warming up to idle 31 Aug 2015 20:47 #688125

  • DGA
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All early '80s bikes were lean to start out, worse on the idle and low rpm ranges. If they have not been removed, drill into and pull the sealing caps from above the idle mixture screws and wind the screws under the caps open a turn and see if that changes anything. When set right most small engines should need minimal choke from cold to run, I always think that if you need choke for more than 30 seconds the idle mixture is still too lean.
"83 KZ1100 Spectre, '81 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, '74 Kawasaki H2B 750

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Last edit: by DGA.

Warming up to idle 01 Sep 2015 06:21 #688150

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Greetings all,

I'm a relatively new rider. I've had my bike about a year. 1982 KZ750 Spectre. As I've been able to do and understand more about the bike, I have come to realize that it takes quite a long time for the bike to get to a point where I can open the choke all the way without the bike stalling out. ...


I guess you mean close the choke all the way? There should be helpful info in the starting the engine section of the owner's manual. If you have to continue using the choke after the engine is warm, you may have clogged jets or passages.
The pilot jets have polyester caps w/ o-rings over them.

In general for CV carburetors: open the choke all the way to start the engine; then move it to the half way position immediately if the ambient temps are mild-to-warm or if temps are cold, set it half way after about 30 seconds; then close the choke after the engine is warm enough to idle on its own or about 15-30 seconds after driving off. To start the bike when the engine is already warmed up or when the ambient temps are 95o+, crack open the throttle instead of using the choke.

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Last edit: by martin_csr.

Warming up to idle 01 Sep 2015 08:17 #688165

  • SWest
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I've been striving to get my 33's to require the choke when cold like my 28's were. Being too rich on the bottom isn't good ether.
Remember, lean is mean. :evil:
Steve

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Warming up to idle 01 Sep 2015 08:23 #688167

  • missionkz
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Traditional verbatage is that you open the choke to let all the air in and close the choke to stop most of the air.
Open choke means not functioning... normal fuel mixture.
Close choke means it is engaged.... very rich mixture.

Most of our carb's "chokes" are fuel enrichment valves, not really chokes at all.
So opening the "choke" can really mean open the valve which greatly enriched the mixture for cold starting.
Bruce
1977 KZ1000A1
2016 Triumph T120 Bonneville
Far North East Metro Denver Colorado

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Last edit: by missionkz.
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