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Shdwdrgn wrote: What about the stock two-piece head gasket? I assume this is similar to an auto engine head gasket which also goes on dry?

Always dry with OEM. They have a sealant coating. So do all the OEM cover gaskets. Big difference in quality compared to aftermarket.

missionkz wrote: I stopped using the two piece had gasket on the 4cyl Kaws quite a while ago just to eliminate that darn, leaking cam chain tunnel, O'ring.
I've had those things leak, eventually, too many times.

Hey missionkz,

On your builds where the chain o-ring leaked, were both the head and block decks checked with a straight edge to be sure warpage was .002" or less?

VTEC wrote: Always dry with OEM. They have a sealant coating. So do all the OEM cover gaskets. Big difference in quality compared to aftermarket.

This gasket kit was made by Vesrah. I don't know how close to OEM it is, but it seemed to be the only somewhat complete set I could find that had good reviews. The head gasket is the typical waffle-stamped thick steel like I've always seen for cars, so nothing unusual there. I used these on car engines with and without the copper spray over the years, it never made a difference -- both methods sealed up fine for the life of the motor, so I'll just leave them dry for this build.

VTEC wrote:

missionkz wrote: I stopped using the two piece had gasket on the 4cyl Kaws quite a while ago just to eliminate that darn, leaking cam chain tunnel, O'ring.
I've had those things leak, eventually, too many times.

Hey missionkz,

On your builds where the chain o-ring leaked, were both the head and block decks checked with a straight edge to be sure warpage was .002" or less?

With regards to the very last one I did, although I stripped the head down, putting the Viton seals in myself, hand lapping valves and reassembling it, ... neither the cylinder block or head was checked for flatness and I used the head like that.
It is still dry as bone.
The previous time, the head was checked (it was a different head and I was having the valve seats/faces ground and they put in new guide seals) but it was found to be off a wee bit so I had it milled flat first.
It did not leak anywhere either when using the same method with Copper Coat Sealer, one piece Cometic head gasket and filling the O'ring groove with Ultra Black RTV.
Oh, I don't care if nobody else recommends using the sealer on composite head gaskets, it works fine for me and I'll never use one dry again.
I can see no down side to it yet.

Shdwdrgn wrote:
This gasket kit was made by Vesrah. I don't know how close to OEM it is, but it seemed to be the only somewhat complete set I could find that had good reviews. The head gasket is the typical waffle-stamped thick steel like I've always seen for cars, so nothing unusual there. I used these on car engines with and without the copper spray over the years, it never made a difference -- both methods sealed up fine for the life of the motor, so I'll just leave them dry for this build.

I havn't looked into them. Do they make a headgasket for the 72mm overbore?

VTEC wrote: I havn't looked into them. Do they make a headgasket for the 72mm overbore?

I couldn't say, I don't even know if they have their own website... however they have gasket kits all over ebay and amazon. Easy enough to find them.

They have a site and vintage catalog at: catalog.vesrah.co.jp/list/vintage_gasket.asp

Looks like they don't make 72mm overbore gaskets, but they do make OEM size KZ1100 gaskets which will work on a 72mm bore.

Shdwdrgn wrote:

VTEC wrote: I havn't looked into them. Do they make a headgasket for the 72mm overbore?

I couldn't say, I don't even know if they have their own website... however they have gasket kits all over ebay and amazon. Easy enough to find them.

I'm curious...who took your engine apart?

... I did? What am I missing here?

Shdwdrgn wrote: ... I did? What am I missing here?

How long ago did you take it down, and did you replace the cylinder block base gasket?

Oh, the engine I tore down last year. ALL of the gaskets have been replaced as I built it back up. I finished the base last Summer with the crank and such, got the cylinder mounted, then ran out of time. I got the generator and ignition in place last weekend, but then ran into trouble when I tried to put the head on. Fortunately it looks like every other gasket is present in the kit, which isn't much. I have one more side cover, plus the head and cap. Fill her up with oil and crank the starter motor to get it worked through the various passages and check for leaks, and then I can start on the electrical.

Stock Kawasaki gasket setup would be two head gaskets, four 18.5mm special o-rings, and one center o-ring.

Good luck, and take your time as you work through the critical assembly steps.

Oh, just remembered...Jeff at Z1E advised me to install the o-rings dry, with no sealer or anything applied. That was back in 2015, and there has been absolutely no seepage of oil to date. Having APE cylinder stud/nuts really helps with that.
I regularly operate this engine from 5K to red line, and that baby has remained sealed tight as a drum.