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Torque question 02 Sep 2014 10:17 #645919

  • Markovich
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Hi all, I am replacing the seals for shift shaft, clutch shaft, output shaft as well as the gasket on the cover itself. The cover has 9 screws holding it in place. I couldn't find a torque for the fasteners in my FSM. Is there a torque for these fasteners? Can or should I change these Phillips style fasteners to socket head screws? What do you guys think?
1990 KZ1000P, 72k miles, 10 years in storage, new, bars, tires, chain and sprockets, seat, carbs cleaned, police equipement removed.

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Torque question 02 Sep 2014 10:47 #645924

  • pete greek1
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Cant help you on the torque specs. but DONT use a Phillip bit or Screwdriver on the cross head Screws
Those are ( JIS ), Japanese Industrial Standard, Screws, & if you use Phillips Bits or Drivers you will strip them
So buy yourself a set of #1, #2, & #3, JIS bits which you will need for all the crosshead screws on your bike
If the screws are already in bad shape, then yes replace them with Allen head screws
650ed, has a good tutorial on JIS Screws & bits
Pete
1980 LTD 1000..,1976 LTD 900, have the 1000&900 now. the rest are previous= 1978 KZ 650 B.., 1980 Yamaha XT 500..,1978 Yamaha DT 400.., 1977 Yamaha yz 80..,Honda trail ct 70.., Honda QA 50...5-1/2 hp brigs & straton CAT chopper mini bike...3-1/2 hp mini bike (WHEN GAS WAS ABOUT 45 CENTS A GALLON)!!!!
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Torque question 02 Sep 2014 11:04 #645927

  • MFolks
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And use on the first few threads of the screws, some of the silver Anti-Seize, to prevent galling. Anytime you've got SS or Steel fasteners in Aluminum, there's a chance of dis-similar corrosion.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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Torque question 02 Sep 2014 13:15 #645955

  • 650ed
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Regarding the torque - your Kawasaki Service Manual should have a table under the section "DISASSEMBLY - INTRODUCTION" that shows the torque specs. For any fastener not specifically listed the page immediately after the table shows torque specs based on bolt diameter and thread pitch.

Regarding PHILLIPS screws -

STOP! Do not even try to use Phillips screwdrivers on the Kawasaki cross head screws. Despite their appearance they are not Phillips screws. They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screws. The tips of Phillips screwdrivers are too long & pointed to allow the 4 blades of the screwdriver to properly engage the screws, so when you apply force the screw head slots will deform and look like crap. The fact is that Phillips screws were deliberately designed to have the screwdriver bit "cam out." This was done to prevent production line assembly from over-tightening, stripping, or breaking the screws. JIS screws do not have this problem. A proper fitting JIS bit can tighten a JIS screw to and beyond the torque spec without camming out. Here's the good news - you can easily modify standard Phillips screwdriver tips to fit the JIS screws.

I have ground down the tips of DeWalt #2 and DeWalt #3 Phillips to make them fit JIS screws. The large crosshead screws on the cases take modified #3 bits (or genuine #3 JIS bits). To modify the DeWalt bits you need to grind the very tip a little, then test fit, then grind a little more and test fit, etc. until the bit no longer "rocks" back and forth in the screwhead. Picture 1 below shows how a DeWalt #3 bit fits the case screws of my KZ650 after being ground properly. The #2 DeWalt bits can be modified the same way to fit smaller JIS screws. Pictures 2 and 3 below shows DeWalt #2 and #3 modified bits.

I did find a place that sells authentic JIS bits. They don't list the #3 bit, but if you contact them they can provide the #3 JIS bits even though they are not listed on the website. These folks were very easy to work with, and the authentic bits do work great. Here's their site:

www.rjrcooltools.com/shop_item_detail.cfm?subcat_ID=89

Pictures 4 & 5 below show a comparison between my home made modified bits with the authentic JIS bits. Ed

PICTURE 1


PICTURE 2


PICTURE 3


PICTURE 4


PICTURE 5
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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