TOPIC:

Wanted to clarify I'm trying to move the footrests and controls to the rear with linkages. Effectively moving the riders feet up a hair and towards the rear of the machine.

Also, my instruments seem to have gotten some splash behind the lenses. Are these easy to get off so I can clean the back side of the lense?

I've seen gauge mods on CB's where they bend the clamped bit out. I don't know of an easy way because I think they are pressed.

If there is no other way than to bend the clamped half out you could cut it and find some sort of V-Band to put them back together.

Tumbleweeds wrote: I also need to take off the carbs and go through them. The bike will idle but when you try to give it any throttle it bogs down and tries to die. Here is a photo of the sorry shape the pods were in.

Attachment ImageUploadedByTapatalk1396558125.414543.jpg not found

Replace those with K&N or Uni filters. Those wire mesh units are useless.
They are more restrictive and do not filter.

.

Tumbleweeds wrote: The side plates on the bike are off a custom I believe.

Attachment ImageUploadedByTapatalk1396558218.157286.jpg not found

These will be gone as the idea is that there is nothing behind these plates. Everything will be relocated to the tail cone or under the tank.

Side covers are not original for that bike but are correct for that model.

.

Tumbleweeds wrote: Wanted to clarify I'm trying to move the footrests and controls to the rear with linkages. Effectively moving the riders feet up a hair and towards the rear of the machine.

Also, my instruments seem to have gotten some splash behind the lenses. Are these easy to get off so I can clean the back side of the lense?

Attachment ImageUploadedByTapatalk1396582350.154055.jpg not found

Removing the foot pegs and going to rear sets requires more than 1 bolt if it is to be bolt on.
I have fabricated a set with a 1 bolt mount, it required welding. When doing yours remember
the swing of the kick start lever. There is a person that restores KZ gauges, don't remember
who it is. Do a search you'll find it.

.

Do you have a repair manual?


.

Yes I have a clymers manual that came with the bike, ill probably never use it. I will look into the gauges, they can't be that hard just didn't know if that was a common thing with them. Can't I just cut out a rear set plate that has a hole for the bolt and a small hole for that locating pin?

Also you mention kick start clearance, my kick starter has severely worn through my brake lever. Just noticed that last night.

Nebr_Rex wrote:

Tumbleweeds wrote: I also need to take off the carbs and go through them. The bike will idle but when you try to give it any throttle it bogs down and tries to die. Here is a photo of the sorry shape the pods were in.

Attachment ImageUploadedByTapatalk1396558125.414543.jpg not found

Replace those with K&N or Uni filters. Those wire mesh units are useless.
They are more restrictive and do not filter.

.

Where can I find some new K&N filters that fit my 272 carbs?

I found these for 100$ but that seems pricey www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=RC-2314

Spot where kick start rubs brake lever:

Wheels are still very nice




Coils, plugs, wires

Take a look at adjusting the brake pedal. If it is rotated too high on the spline the kicker can hit it. Otherwise, it's possible something is bent and causing that interference. Ed

I just got done cleaning out the carb jets and blowing out passageways, the pilot jets were almost completely clogged on all but one carb. Mineral spirits did away with all the gunk quickly. My rubber boots were showing hairline cracks so I siliconed those up a little. The carb had 97.5 mains and 15 pilots. Ill leave it alone for now as the bike ran on this setup at one time, can always fine tune later on. I set the screws to 1.75 turns out.

I have some new k&n brand filters on the way as well, battery is charged, we will see what happens.