TOPIC:

Maybe if Stoppee reads this he can input something, he helped me cypher all this, it was a while ago...STOPPEEEE!!

great you have a wizard and my wizard went and died on me so i'm struggling along wizardless [is that even a word don't know, don't care] in stead of making up spacers i reach in to my special bag of cast off parts and sometimes find what i'm looking for it can be a pain at tire change time trying to remember where every thing goes but thankfully i only have to do that every 6 races or so. by the way have i mentioned how much i like your bike and ideas,oh well maybe i will someday.

My Condolances for you and your Wizard.

Thanks for the compliment!!

tk11b40 wrote:

180/55 17 cleared the chain.

Hmmm... now you have me looking at the bottom side of the chain clearance I just remember that was not an issue. You would think it too would need clearance but seems like it did not.

I had to grind off the bottom foot ped bolt"s boss , on the inside. as the chain flops around it wore on the boss.
I chose to go none oring to add clearance.
I think u have chosen the better path by cutting the frame. the ony other way would be giong with a 1/2" offset sprocket.I never did understand why other guys dont have all these issues when they use dif swing arms? I ended up putting on a 170 tire to gain chain to tire clearance. i also had to mill the back of the hub to move the rear sprocket to the right, while maintaining the wheels center.
i still wonder if my troubles were do to, trying to line up the rear rim to the front rim. posibly the steering neck is offset to the left, witch forces everything at the rear, towards the left???? when i finnished, the rear rim looked offset to the left, when veiwed from the back end, eventhough it is in line with the front rim.

You have a great point there.

This is what brought me to KZR forum. You see all kinds of stuff when you look close at modifications. You would be surprised how many bukes have the rear tire offset form the front or, when they line up to the front, they are offset from the centerline of the rear fender. The guys in this forum take it seriously, abd understand when you ask these questions.

My Ducati S4r, it does not even look "perfect". Drives me crazy. The KZ centered up well, it looks right. I think that was just luck.

You are right; you probably have a steering head thats offset a little, and there you go, the rear tire is always going to look a touch off center.

My plan "B", was to shim the rear fender if it turned out to look like the rear tire was off center. I would try that. Keep the two wheels lined up, very important when the front end gets light at high speed.

I got tired of trying to get a good view of everything, while the bike was sitting on the floor. I have considered a Harbor freight bike lift, but that is Chinese stuff and generally Chinese stuff "looks like it will work" but ends up in a landfill.

So for about 50 bucks in lumber and hardware, I built this table/ workstand today.

I think it's cool/ maybe it'll give you some ideas.

Very cool bike table. Nice job. i can really appreciate it since i am a better wood worker than a bike builder.
I have often thought of that myself. Then I tell myself that I am only going to build this bike once so I wont need it any more. This is build # 4. lol.
I have heard from guys that they have not had any issues running the rear tire offset from the front. Guys that I THINK know what there talking about.
I just did not want to find out the hard way that they are wrong, so I made sure mine was true to the front tire.
I have even heard that some factory bikes are off. I guess that must be true since they cant even get the steering necks on straight.
Anyways. My next project will be a 200 tire on the rear. That may force me to offset the rear end?
I may even offset this one some time, just to see if it has any ill effects first.
I noticed a little lightness in the front end when i go over bumps with this setup. i will try raising the rear 1" to see how it affects this. 1" at the rear is close to 1* rake at the front.It will give me less rake, witch is bad,but im thinking if i get more weight up front, it will be better. idealy i should try to move weight from the rear to the front. that is how the modern bikes get away with less rake.

This may sound like a silly question; but have you thought about lowering the forks in the triple clamp. Drag racers do it to get more weight over the front end.

Thanks for the compliments. The table is one of those things I just finally stopped work on the bike and said to myself "I have got to get this thing up in the air!!!"

one problem that you will encounter unless the frame is raked when you lower the forks it the trees is that you are getting closer to the pipes and when you hit the brakes hard it can jam the front wheel into the pipes causing an instant stoppee not a good thing when you haven't planned for it. seen it happen at the top end of the track one time last year with a guy on a zx10 needless to say at over 140 mph he went down not to cool.

Ok the Low fork thing first...

I am always surprised to see a bike that has minimal ground clearance and super trick forks. Kind of defeates the purpose. If the super trick upside down forks turn into a safety hazard, they are not much good.

I was fortunate, in that a good buddie of mine is a GSXR guru..(the guy who posted the 160 Honda photo).

We tried several forks, and pulled the springs to see where they bottomed out.

You are correct, it would be possible to slam the front wheel, this is why you see older conventional forks on my KZ. It is difficult to find long enough "upside down" forks.

I am putting th bike together for the last time, and now have the front end on with Brakes and lines.

I just put my motor back in and fired her up. i had a look back at your pics and then my bike. a few things to consider ,although i think it is to late. My chain travel has scraped the paint off the frame rail about 1 ½” up, with the new chain adjusted correctly , it quickly stretches , and there is a lot more travel than u might think, as the swing arm goes up and down. I have more clearance than u, a good 1/8” and to chain still rubs on the frame (as it slaps around I guess). I did have to grind the inner lower foot peg boss. I thought I had enough clearance, but after a season of riding I noticed it had worn there.
Also did u remove the lower bolt on the upper motor mount, and cut the bottom off of the plate? It looks like it in the pic? I have a major clearance issue there. I would like to remedy it by getting Irishwill to make me a new mount like his. The only down side is I will have to completely redo my battery box. Unless I can come up with another solution.
If u plan on heading to the strip, u should mount a bearing support , as the 5/8” offset will apply a lot of load on the output shaft (so I am told).
Did u have to mill your hub?
I really don’t understand why other that use dif swing arms don’t have the same clearance issue as we did??
Do u think it can even be done with a ½” offset while maintaining the rear rim center point??

Mark,

Well you are absolutely correct about the lower foot peg bracket bolt, it looks like I will need to remove some material there.

I think you are right about the upper motor mount bolt/plate, and I thank you for the "heads up" on that, I can still remove material from that area.

The plate I put in the frame has about 1/2 inch extra clearance (up and down) for chain slap, but now I am wondering if thats enough.

I did not machine the hub, had sprocket specialists take .060 off the indside of the sprocket, and that lined it up.

Not planning on Drag racing, but it seems like there is a reliability issue, so next go round (stage two) I will probably put the bearing support on. I live five miles from a road course, so the shakedown cruise will be on a road racing circut.

Did the chain get much damage doing its own clearance work on your bike?

If there is minimal damage I may ride mine for a while then in the winter I can do some more surgery.

I sincerley thank you for your input, this is great!!

There does not appear to be any chain damage, except that it broke the clip on the master link. Fortunately i noticed it while lubing the chain and replaced it. now that u have me thinking about it, maybe i should put the master-link in from the opposite side. that way it will not get hit by the frame. I think I had better.
I think u may have a serious issue with the chain hitting the new channel? mine is able to slide up the frame rail. but at times it hits the bottom of the motor mount very hard.
I put a longer bolt in that hole and put about 6 large washers on it. I was hoping that this would act as a bumper. The washers got smashed up pretty good.

On the Santuary frames they put a roller above the lower frame rail for the bottom of the chain to ride on.I'm not sure why. if u PM me i may be able to send u the PDF file with a pic of it.
Shovelfred from Sweeden does his frame like u did. but i dont know how much clearance he cuts. i will try to find out.

tk11b40 wrote:

I am putting th bike together for the last time,

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Phew, well, ummm, last time, last time he says, last
time, chortle, snicker, guffaw. There is no last time, you can never escape, the mod addiction has you. All is lost, give up hope now. Last time, really.


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Troy341

Man I love this post....

The progression and the fabrications are just awesome... Well done! Keep the images (KZ Porn) coming....

Now question regarding "1/2 inch extra clearance (up and down) for chain slap,"

1/2" extra over specification of 1" - 1 1/4" chain slack?
A new chain will stretch some and spec is 1 1/4" max travel measured midway between sprockets.

If I miss read, disregard but if only 1/2" this is going to be one taut chain....

OMR

Ahhh

Ok been out for a short vasation to Miller Motorsports park for the World Super bike event.

HHAAaaaaaaa....

I think you are right on on that observation.


Chain slap thing, the clearanced area measures bout 2 1/2 inches top to bottom (verticle).

I cant help but post this photo of Jake Zemke, I asked for a photo, after the race and he just invites me in to talk...he is the greatest.

ok too big so resize and try again

Now that is just TOOOO COOOL
check your PM's

Mark,

Got the pics thanks.

I hope to work it out this weekend.

I spent last Saturday getting the front brake lines and system all squared away. I removed .125" from the bracket that clamps the master cylinder to the bars, this gave a flush fit when the bracket holding the fluid resivour is held on by the clamp.

The front end is all done the brakes feel great!! Spent a great deal of time bleeding all the air out, as the whole system was "dry".