TOPIC:

Testarossa,

Thank you for the encouraging advice, I have done just that, AND it appears the wires match perfectly, (the 4). I wish I knew what the others were there for, but guess it does not matter.

SOOOO.. big night..all the electrics are on, and I am confident after referencing the wiring diagram about 3 dozen times, I am hooked up correctlty at least enough to start it. (it ran before) but all this new stuff I had to re-check.

It still looks to be in parts and pieces, but this means the project has come to near end. The stator, regulator/ rectifier, and Dyna Ignition were the last improvements, now it's time to put it all together and ride it.

I just sat in the garage, amidst the mess, and drank a celebitory beer.

It will be a week before I ride it, but dam, there it is ALL there..just need to re-assemble for about the 40th time.

Anybody reading this needs to know there is no better place to get your parts than Z-1 Enterprises, without the stuff they carry, and knowing it's right when you order it, this thing would have been pushed over a cliff long ago..Thanks Z-1.

awesome spot to be in, congratulations!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

just sitting there looking at it,knowing that it "should run" when you set it all back together.

definitely a cool spot.

leon

tk11b40 wrote:

u have probably already adjusted this, but i would feel bad if u hadn't, and something happened.
so dont forget to reset the rev limiter. 15000 would be hard on the valves and pistons.
i set mine as low as it would go and tested it. i could hear it work.

Good job Sfc. Ted! This is as good as getting back from Iraq! HoneyBadgerRacing has a new bike!

Looks awesome! By the way...how do you bend your aluminum...like the 90 deg bend on your ignition mounting bracket? Looks perfect.

Thanks for the compliments!

I would be the guy who set the rev limiter too high and blew the motor first day out, when i get back in the garage that is thing 1 to do ..

Bending Aluminum...cool that you noticed.

I have some experiance with heat treating aluminum, and a little known fact is that it gets real cooperative (generally) at about 900 degrees. I warm it with a propane torch, and just tap with a dead blow, you can tell it's gonna cooperate when the "ting" sound turns into a "thud". This means the little molecule fellas are ready to party.

Problem is you can heat it too much and either just plain melt it, or make it brittle. Play around with the "ting" and "thud" method..I think you'll hear what I mean. I bent the bracket in the bench vise using this method.

Yee-haaaaaw team Honeybadger!!

tk11b40 wrote: Yee-haaaaaw team Honeybadger!!

You should definitely name it Honeybadger!

Ted, can u get enough heat out a small plumbing propane torch to get a good bend?

mark1122 wrote: Ted, can u get enough heat out a small plumbing propane torch to get a good bend?

same question for me.


When you bend in the vise, do you hammer the metal to bend it? If so, do you hammer close to the bend?

tk11b40 wrote:

Back to the KZ...

I received all the electrical stuff from Z-1 Enterprises, they are the best!!

Now I have the bike all torn apart again, putting in the new Dyna 2000 ignition. So many wires hanging all over the place, I will be glad when this thing is done.

The install is pretty straight forward, it's just the thought of getting into the wiring yet again.

I fancied up a flat pattern for the Brain bracket and hung it behind the battery box.

Oh man, that's nice!
-KR

Wow the aluminum thing seems ro be a hit.

Ok...

Yes a plumbing propane torch is all I use.

Remember the ting and the thud. Warm the area you want to bend. But Aluminum dissopates heat rapidly, so it takes some patience. The metal never gets real hot, I would say around 900 degrees at most (i.e. it does not change color). Thats why you are heating and hitting with the dead blow at the same time.

Aluminum melts at around 1300 degrees depending on the alloy, this was 6061, it might be a little lower like 1250.

You can melt it with a Propane torch if you concentrate the heat in the same area for too long. Think of it like roasting a marshmellow, too much heat and it is up in smoke.

Try it with a smaller scrap piece first. I have done this a few dozen times.

We straightend castings (when I worked in the foundry) as they come out of "quench" after jigging they go into the age oven. The castings make the same sound when they are real pliable, almost rubbery. When they start to make the "ting" sound we would be losing the battle, and many times would need to run them up in the oven followed by quench again.

HoneyBagder...thinkin the name is gonna stick, long as it is ok with the Team manager (Prouty?)

HELP!!

I parked the bike on the street, and after an hour, there was a huge oil slick under it, looks like the shift shaft seal is bad....

Where where where do i find this seal??

I must have this Seal??? I can't find it on the Z-1 Websight, I have found it on some sight from the netherlands, but wary of giving up the Credit card # to an outfit I know nothing about.

It's gotta be some standard Japanese seal.....anyone?

It may not be available individualy, but isn't it included in the seal kit on Z1's website?
www.z1enterprises.com/Engine-Oil-Seal-Ki...Z900-KZ1000-181.aspx

tk11b40 wrote:

I must have this Seal??? I can't find it on the Z-1 Websight, I have found it on some sight from the netherlands, but wary of giving up the Credit card # to an outfit I know nothing about.

It's gotta be some standard Japanese seal.....anyone?

At kawasaki.com after getting to 1975 Z1, look under "Engine Covers" to find part number 92049-004 shown as still "active," meaning supposedly available through Kawasaki dealerships.

Here's a link for help with navigating the site and finding information.

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...w&catid=13&id=376734

Good Fortune!

If Z1B search gets message, Model not shown in parts catalog, add a dash Z1-B and press the green arrow to search again.

Or may just remove the "B" and search Z1 without the B, and scroll down to 1975 Z1.

Good Fortune!

They should be out there somewhere. I bought a kit that included both shift shaft seals (one for the outer engine cover too) and the countershaft seal. My MKII leaked from there too. Not a drop since replacing the seals. I think I got the kit from Z1E but might have been eBay.

Is this the one you are looking for?

www.schnitzracingstore.com/catalogs/cata...26698&showprevnext=1

racer54 wrote: Is this the one you are looking for?

www.schnitzracingstore.com/catalogs/cata...26698&showprevnext=1

That's it! Takes 2 but the one in the sprocket cover is just for support...not sealing any oil.

.....has oil leak, $5 part, easy fix.....

those Gents in the Netherlands are good folks and are not in the game to make enemies from what i ahve bought, they treat folks right and have the goods(some friggin nice stuff too) to help us..just thought it helps when a member has history.i have bought stuff there...gotta be the same guys...there are a couple up there......

Patton wrote:

tk11b40 wrote:

I must have this Seal??? I can't find it on the Z-1 Websight, I have found it on some sight from the netherlands, but wary of giving up the Credit card # to an outfit I know nothing about.

It's gotta be some standard Japanese seal.....anyone?

At kawasaki.com after getting to 1975 Z1, look under "Engine Covers" to find part number 92049-004 shown as still "active," meaning supposedly available through Kawasaki dealerships.

Here's a link for help with navigating the site and finding information.

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...w&catid=13&id=376734

Good Fortune!